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RO: Ce mod mai bun de a incepe weekendul decat cu niste sfaturi vestimentare, nu-i asa? Am fost foarte suparata atunci cand v-am povestit despre ideea mea, dar doua fete dragute si-au rupt cateva minute si mi-au lasat comentarii, iar cand Andreea (Thrill of a heel), al carei stil il admir (si nu va mai spun cat o invidiez pt hainele incredibile pe care le gaseste in second-hand-uri, si pantofii Miu Miu), a zis ca ar fi interesata sa citeasca asa ceva am zis ca trebuie sa ma apuc de documentare.

Am vrut sa structurez un pic articolele, asa nu omit sa scriu despre un anumit lucru, asa ca l-am impartit pe "capitole". In acest articol lipseste o rubrica ("Cum s-o porti") pe care n-o voi face decat incepand de la urmatorul articol, care probabil va fi pentru un obiect vestimentar destinat jumatatii inferioare a corpului si asa le voi combina pentru a crea cateva tinute pentru fiecare tip de silueta.

DE CE S-O CUMPERI?

 - bluza de matase va fi intotdeauna la moda
 - foarte versatila, puteti folosi o camasa de matase atat pentru tinute mai casual cat si pentru cele elegante, de zi sau de seara. poate fi piesa care te scoate dintr-un impas vestimentar
 - datorita versatilitatii, o piesa clasica o vei purta multi ani, asa ca este o buna investitie in materie de haine
 - potrivita pentru toate siluetele
 - mentine caldura pe vremuri mai reci (datorita conductivitatii termice reduse) si racoarea in vremurile calduroase (datorita proprietatilor de absortie)
 - matasea este o fibra rezistenta si se va comporta mai bine pe termen indelungat ca uzura, deci vei putea s-o porti multi ani

INTRETINERE

In primul rand, intotdeauna cititi instructiunile de pe eticheta unei piese vestimentare inainte de a o spala.
Exista anumiti ce trebuie evitati atunci cand aveti de-a face cu materiale pretioase ca matasea:
 - nu folositi lumina solara directa sau caloriferul pentru a usca hainele din matase
 - nu folositi detergenti pe baza de clor pentru a indeparta petele
 - daca vreti sa calcati o haina din matase, intoarce-ti-o pe dos atunci cand este inca umeda si folositi setarea pt matase a fierului de calcat (temperatura scazuta)

Si acum va voi da ceva mai multe detalii. Spalare: este de preferat sa spalati de mana hainele de matase, chiar daca pe eticheta scrie ca pot fi spalate si la masina; de asemenea, nu trebuie spalate in apa dura, daca stiti ca aveti apa dura, adaugati o lingura de borax (nu stiu daca e ok si Calgon, s-ar putea sa fie). Folositi apa calduta si sapunuri non-alcaline (alcalin = ph ridicat) sau sampon de bebelusi. Atunci cand clatiti puteti adauga cateva linguri otet din vin alb pentru a indeparta reziduurile de sapun sau balsam de par. Daca totusi vreti sa spalati la masina, alegeti ciclul pentru haine delicate, nu folositi detergenti cu enzime sau inalbitori si folositi cel mai scurt program de stoarcere. Pentru masinile de spalat ce se incarca pe sus este bine sa folositi o plasa de protectie (ca cele pentru lenjerie intima de ex).

Uscare: nu rasuciti haina pentru a o stoarce, impaturiti-o intrun prosop. Intindeti hainele de matase la uscat, ele isi vor pastra forma si nu folositi uscator de haine (desi in Romania nu se prea practica asta, dar e bine sa stiti). Evitati sa puneti hainele de matase la uscat pe uscatoare de lemn deoarece lacurile si bait-urile pot pata hainele. Nu este necesar sa calcati hainele de matase, le puteti pune pe umeras si le lasati peste noapte sau le puteti lasa in baie in timp ce faceti dus, aburii vor imblanzi si cutele cele mai incapatanate. Daca le calcati, nu le udati si aveti grija sa nu folositi o temperatura prea mare.

CE SA ALEGI

Inainte de toate, daca nu stiti in ce silueta va incadrati, aruncati un ochi aici. Mi s-a parut un articol folositor si ma voi referi in articole la tipurile de silueta descrise in el. Daca simtitit ca va incadrati in 2 tipuri de silueta puteti sa va uitati la ambele si vedeti ce vi se potriveste mai bine.

Ideea de baza cu imbracamintea este de a incerca pe cat posibil sa te apropii de silueta clepsidra. Daca deja te incadrezi in aceasta categorie, felicitari, daca nu, trebuie sa echilibrezi bustul si umerii cu coapsele si fundul dar mai important este sa va evidentiati atuurile si sa ascundeti micile defecte.

Acestea sunt doar niste recomandari, nu zic poarta doar asta, cel mai bine este sa luati in considerare ce am scris si sa experimentati. Incercati diverse stiluri si vedeti ce vi se potriveste cel mai bine, alegeti haine in care va simtiti voi bine, pentru ca daca nu te simti bine se va vedea si degeaba ai ales tu o piesa superba daca nu ai si atitudinea adecvata.

Iar pentru inceput este indicat sa alegeti o bluza intro culoare neutra, preferabil nude sau alb, pe care s-o combinati foarte usor cu cat mai multe articole deja existente in garderoba voastra.

CLEPSIDRA

Daca aveti o silueta tip clepsidra puteti sa purtati aproape orice croiala, decolteuri in V, decolteuri inguste, largi, jabouri, bluze pe corp, bluze mai largi. Va puteti juca si experimenta pentru a decoperi ce va place mai mult si ce va vine bine, in functie de ce vreti sa scoateti in evidenta sau sa ascundeti. In functie de marimea bustului puteti arunca o privire si la mar (cele cu bustul mai generos) sau para (cele cu un bust mai mic).

MARUL

Daca silueta este una de tip mar, bluzele ar trebui sa fie cat mai simple, evitand astfel sa adaugati volum acolo unde este deja, deci fara bluze late si prea largi. In schimb, puteti opta pentru decoltee in V care alungesc si subtiaza, dar aveti grija cat de adanc este decolteul astfel incat tinuta voastra sa nu para "ieftina". Alta problema pe care trebuie s-o aveti in vedere la camasieste cat de stramta vine pe bust, nu este ok sa se creeze acele gaurele intre nasturi, sa para ca sta sa pocneasca camasa de pe voi. Daca aveti in schimb umeri lati, puteti sa cautati bluze care au cusatura mai sus pe umar, nu exact la margine, sau maneci "raglan" (imi pare rau dar vident nu stiu cum as putea sa traduc termenul, pana ieri nici nu stiam ca exista o denumire pentru ele) si puteti alege bluze ce se strang in zona taliei ce va vor lasa iluzia de forme. Evitati umeri bufanti, nu fac decat sa evidentieze si mai mult zona umerilor.

OK: decoltee in V, decolteee stranse in zona gatului, maneci "raglan", maneci "dolman", bluze pe corp, ingustate in zona taliei
NOT OK: decoltee largi (stil barcuta, stil inima), umeri bufanti, bluze cu gluga mare, detalii pe umeri

PARA

La polul opus marului, este indicat ca femeile cu o silueta in stil para  sa poarte bluze cu detalii, adaugand volum in partea superioara a corpului pentru a echilibra volumul din partea inferioara. Asa ca puteti alege jabouri, umeri bufanti, maneci largi si stil clopot, decolterui largi (barcuta, inima, glugi), detalii pe umeri (epoleti de ex.). Evitati decoltee prea stranse in jurul gatului, manecile "dolman" si "raglan" va vor ingusta umerii si mai mult.

OK: decoltee largi, barcuta, inima, umeri bufanti, glugi, detalii pe umeri
NOT OK: decoltee stranse pe gat, decoltee in V, maneci "dolman", maneci "raglan"

ROTUNDA

Daca aveti o silueta rotunda, trebuie sa incercati cat mai mult sa evidentiati talia sau cea mai mica parte a corpului pentru a crea acea silueta clepsidra. Bluzele parte peste parte, cele cu banda in zona taliei and curelele ar trebui sa fie prietenele tale cele mai bune. Si decolteele in V sunt bune, datorita efectelor de subtiere si alungire. Ar trebui sa evitati sa bagati bluza in pantaloni, bluzele patratoase si largi nu vor face decat sa creeze iluzia ca esti mai mare decat in realitate. Dar aveti grija si cu bluzele prea stranse pe corp, bluzele vaporoase vor ascunde burtica.

OK: decoltee in V, bluza parte peste parte, bande in zona taliei, bluze vaporoase
NOT OK: bluze prea largi sau prea stranse

SUBTIRE ATLETICA

Femeile cu silueta atletica trebuie sa creeze ideea de forme astfel incat sa arate cat mai feminin. Asa ca o bluza cu detalii (jabou, pliuri, buzunare, funde) vor adauga volum partii superioare a corpului. Bluzele cu o banda in jurul taliei sau ingustate in zona taliei pot, de asemenea, crea acea silueta clepsidra. Deoarece cele cu o silueta atletica au de obicei si un bust mic, puteti alege sa evidentiati alta parte a corpului pentru a compensa, cum ar fi spatele, bratele si umerii. Daca esti miniona ar trebui sa eviti bluzele prea largi care arata a rochii. Iar daca, din contra, esti inalta, ar trebui sa eviti bluze lungi nebagate in pantaloni/fuste deoarece vor alungi si mai mult silueta iar ideea este de a crea silueta clepsidra, nu sa o alungiti.

OK: jabouri, plirui, buzunare in zona bustului, funde, maneci "dolman", umeri bufanti, bluze parte peste parte
NOT OK: bluze lungi nebagate in pantaloni/fuste pt cele inalte, bluze prea mari care par rochii pentru cele minione

DE UNDE SA CUMPERI

Nu am sa va arat bluze de designer (desi o piesa de designer nu ar fi o investitie rea), scopul meu e sa va arat bluze de matase la preturi accesibile omului de rand iar dupa o cautare rapida Asos iese invingator cu varietate si preturi accesibile dar am inclus si cateva modele de la Topshop. Este clar ca daca preferi shopping-ul clasic nu este foarte usor sa gasesti bluze de matase desi o metoda grozava ar fi sa cauti si prin second-hand-uri (cine stie peste ce comoara puteti sa dati, daca nu ma credeti, aruncati o privire la Andreea pe blog sa vedeti peste ce da ea in second-hand-uri), doar trebuie sa ai rabdare si sa fii minutioasa.

Pozele le gasiti la sfarsit, dupa articolul in engleza.

Cum vi s-a parut articolul, v-a placut, va este folositor? V-am convins sa investiti intr-o bluza de matase sau avet deja? Astept si sugestiile voastre, unde ati mai vazut bluze sau camasi de matase.

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EN: What a better way to start the weekend than with some wardrobe tips, don't you think? Well, I was super bummed the day I first wrote about my idea. but some sweet girls took a little time to leave some feedback, and when Andreea (Thrill of a heel), whose style I admire very much (and envy her awesome designer thrift finds and her Miu Miu shoes) said she would be interested in reading these posts I knew that now I just had to start the research.

In order to give a  structure to the articles and force me to remember to write every little aspect I'll divide the articles in certain "chapters", as you will see. Though this article is lacking a chapter (How to ear it), you will find it starting the next post, which will probably be for pants or skirt and I will combine them to create some outfits for every body shape.

WHY TO BUY?

 - it'll always be in style
 - very versatile, dress it down for more casual looks, or up for more elegant, day and night, it can be your safety net whenever you're in a wardrobe jam
 - due to it's versatility, a timeless piece you'll wear for many years, so it's a good  investment, wardrobe wise
 - flattering for all body types
 - keeps you warm during colder times (due to its low heat conductivity) and cool during warmer and active times (due to its absorbency)
 - silk is a very tough fiber and will resist longer to normal rip and tare, so again, you'll wear it for years

MAINTENANCE

First of all, you should always read the instructions label on a garment before any washing.
There are some factors that you should avoid when dealing with such a fine fabric like silk:
        - do not use direct sunlight or radiator to dry your silk garments
        - do not use any chlorine bleach to remove stains
        - if you iron silk garments, turn them inside out while damp and use the silk option (cool iron)

Now some more details. Washing: it is preferred to wash silk clothes by hand, no matter if the label says it can be machine washed; also, you should not wash them in hard water, if you have hard water, add a spoonful of borax (I guess Calgon could work, or something similar, thought I'm not sure). Use lukewarm water with non-alkaline (alkaline aka high ph) soaps or baby shampoo. When rinsing you can add a little bit (a few tablespoons) of white distilled vinegar to remove soap residues or hair conditioner for an extra silky feel. If you do wish to wash it in the machine, select a delicate cycle, do not use detergents with enzymes or brighteners and use the shortest spin program.

Drying: do not wring or twist to remove the water, wrap instead in a towel. Hang your silk clothes to dry for they will keep their shape and do not use a dryer. Avoid wooden drying racks for the dyes and finishes can leave stains. It is not really necessary to iron silk clothes, just hang the garment over night and for tougher wrinkles you can leave in the bathroom while you're taking a shower, the steam will take care of those stubborn wrinkles. If you iron, do not wet locally and be careful not to use too much heat.

WHAT TO CHOOSE

First of all, if you do not know you're body shape, please take a look at this article. I find it to be very useful and complete, plus I will be referring to those body-shapes in my articles. If you find your shape fits with more than one, look at all of them and then choose what you like best.

The basic idea is to get as close as possible to the ideal hourglass shape. If you already have an hourglass shaped body, congratulations, if not, the idea is to balance your body and the most important thing: bring out your nice features and hide the imperfections.

These are guidelines, I'm not saying that you should only wear this and that, the best thing is to take them into account and then go out there and experiment. Try different styles and see what fits you best and what goes with your own personal style and always go for clothes you feel good in, because if you don't feel good wearing a particular piece it will show, and no matter if the piece is stunning it won't look like that because you lack the attitude.

For starters it is great to go for a shirt in a neutral color, preferably nude or white, in order to combine it with as many clothes that are already in your wardrobe as possible.

HOURGLASS

If you have an hourglass figure you can pretty much wear almost every style you can think of and find. V necks, narrow necklines, wide necklines, ruffles, fitted shirts, loose shirts you should play around and find what fits your style best and think what you want to emphasize and what to hide. Depending on the size of your breasts you can also look at the apple (bigger breasts) or the pear (small breasts).

APPLE

If you are an apple shape your shirts should be pretty simple, avoiding to add volume to your upper body, so no chunky shirts, too loose ones. Instead, you should definitely wear V necks, they elongate and slim your body but if you're large breasted, be careful how much cleavage you show in order to avoid a cheap look. Also, if you're large breasted and want a button down shirt be careful how tight it is in the chest area, there shouldn't be gapping holes. If your broad shouldered instead, you want to look for shirts with the seam sitting on the outer edge of your shoulder, not on top of it or raglan sleeves and shirts that tapper towards the waist will give you a more curvy look. Avoid puff shoulders, they only add volume and will emphasize your shoulders even more.



PEAR

Opposite to the apple shape, pear shaped women should definitely add some volume to the upper body in order to balance out the bottom half of their body. So feel free to splurge in ruffles (by the way, if in the bust area, ruffles and other details will add volume and make your breasts appear larger), puffy shoulders, puffy and flared sleeves, wide neck lines (boat necks, sweetheart necks, large cowls, ) and shoulder details in general. Avoid narrow V necks and heavily gathered neck lines, dolman sleeves, raglan sleeves which will only make your shoulders even narrow.

OK: wide neck lines, boat necks, sweetheart necks, puff shoulders, large cowls, shoulder details
NOT OK: V necks, heavily gathered neck lines, raglan sleeves, dolman sleeves

ROUND

If you're body shape is round, your main concern would be defining the waist/smallest part of your body line in order to have the hourglass figure. Wrap around shirts, banded waists and belts should be your best friends. V necks are also a good idea, due to the sliming and elongating effect. Avoid tucking in your shirts,
boxy oversized shirts, they will only make you appear bigger than you actually are. But be careful and do not choose shirts that cling close to your body, flowy shirts hide your tummy.

OK: V necks, wrap shirts, banded waists, flowy shirts
NOT OK: boxy, oversized or clinging shirts

SLIM ATHLETIC

Straight figured women should look to create the idea of curves in order to look more feminine. So a shirt with details (ruffles, pleats, pockets, bows) will add some much needed volume to your upper body. A banded waist can again create some curves, and dolman sleeves can help too. Because the slim athletic type usually means small breasts you should look to show off other features, like your back, arms and shoulders. If you are a petite, you should avoid oversized shirts because they will look like dresses. If you are tall, then you should avoid long untucked shirts because they only lengthen the body and the idea is to create curves, not to elongate the body.

OK: ruffles, pleats, breast pockets, bows, dolman sleeves, banded waist, puff shoulders, wrap arounds
NOT OK: long untucked shirts for tall women, oversized shirts for petites

WHERE TO BUY

I'm not going to show you designer silk shirts (though it would not be such a bad idea), my purpose is to show you affordable pieces that the average person can buy and after a quick search (go on the site and simply search for silk top), clearly Asos has the advantage, variety and great prices but I've included a little Topshop as well. Clearly it is not so easy to find silk shirts, especially when you're not shopping online though a great way to find silk clothes at great prices are thrift stores, you just have to be very patient and thorough .

What do you think about the article, did you like it, did you find it useful? Did I convince to invest in a silk shirt or do you already have one? I'm open to suggestions for shops where you can find silk shirts.











BI-LAL-KAIFA